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Week 5 (28-35 Days)

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Quick Reference Guide

Goal

Build puppy’s bond with humans through praise, petting and food; overcome new fear responses.

Environments

Around your facility – such as outdoor play areas, rooms near the den, or puppy-proofed locations for “onsite field trips”. Introductions to van/car and bath.

Volunteer Activities

Include a wide variety of volunteer demographics, for gentle handling, play activities, and socialization to different types of people.

Introduction

This week, puppies will begin to show fear responses so it is important to continue providing puppies with positive experiences through environmental enrichment and interactive activities. We want to develop our puppies’ focus on their handler by building our relationship and bond.  

  • Encourage positive associations with handlers by using positive rewards such as praise, petting, and food.
  • Continue promoting confidence and calm acceptance of unfamiliar environments. Recognise fear responses when they occur and encourage puppies to “sort it out” themselves or with the support of their littermates or handlers. Make sure you’re familiar with our guide to Emotional Conflict during Early Socialization.
  • Pup is in the Engaged (Green) zone most of the time: they will happily explore a new environment, play with littermates then fall asleep, and accept familiar handling techniques, surfaces, objects and textures without issue.
  • Pup is engaged with the handler or environment most of the time (not hiding, overly stressed, or shutting down). Pup’s confidence will increase as it interacts and learns that its environment is constantly changing.
  • The addition of unfamiliar stimuli is accepted with minimal issue, and additional exposures to stimuli show improvement in the puppies’ comfort levels.
  • Alternatively, pup is conflicted briefly then moves back into the green zone once it has resolved the internal conflict.  (Pup displays 1 or 2 stress signs (yawning, whining) it quickly resolves inner conflict without escalating to additional stress signals; Second exposure pups are more confident with a reduced number of stress signals. Look for an improvement in the pup’s confidence with each exposure to the stimuli. If the pup has displayed 2 or 3 stress signals, set pup up for success and aim for less next time by building the pup’s confidence.)

For more information on puppy engagement during socialization, read our article on Emotional Conflict During Socialization here.

  • Puppies are more susceptible to fear reactions beginning this week. Extra caution should be taken to focus on building positive experiences and exposures to build confidence.

  • Pups still need large amounts of sleep. Do not over stimulate the pup. It cannot learn in this mode 

  • Utilise the natural curiosity of young pups when introducing new environments and build up positive association around change prior to the startle/fear stage that occurs later.

  • Observe pup and adjust procedure appropriately so it is a positive learning experience. Each pup is worked as an individual and techniques are for this pup not the whole litter.

  • Early repeat exposure in different environments will add to pup’s confidence and ways to resolve inner conflict.

  • Keep it brief: Remember pups have short attention spans. A successful exposure may be only seconds long and an entire education session should be no more than 5 minutes.

  • Keep your objective in mind: Since puppies have short attention spans, it is important to focus on the task at hand. While it is very tempting to snuggle a puppy before working with them, this can take away from the puppy’s purposeful learning for the day as they are able to work for noticeably short periods of time

  • Give the puppy an “escape route”:  When an activity has gone on too long, is too overwhelming, or too challenging, a puppy needs a means to avoid it. If a puppy uses the escape route frequently, stop and seek assistance. Large objects, tunnels, gap behind crate can offer a pup a safe area to resolve their inner conflict.

Adaptability is an important skill in working dogs. Teaching pups to accept daily changes in environment, handling and routine during this age group will help them generalise to any environment in their working life.  

Teaching pups to interact with their environment without overreacting is an important skill in producing sound working dogs. 

Teaching these skills during the early critical learning period will produce better results than introducing it after 12 weeks of age when pup is not as adaptable to changes. 

Increasing the pup’s repertoire of positive associations around new and novel objects and environments will result in resilient dogs.

Problem Solving

If a puppy has a significant change in energy and/or needs a longer time to recover, give the puppy time to resolve the conflict on their own. The handler can give the puppy support and encouragement with voice and soft petting. If the puppy has a severe change in energy and is no longer able to be engaged with the handler and activity, end the session on a positive note and return the puppy to their litter.

  • Allow pup time to resolve inner conflict themselves 
  • Offer emotional support via voice and touch
  • Shorten duration of visit. If one pup displays distress signs (whining) the others will usually follow. Be prepared to move when all pups are quiet so as not to reinforce a negative behaviour (whining gets what I want) 
  • Engage with pup using favourite toy
  • Look for an improvement in the pup’s confidence with each exposure to the stimuli. If the pup has displayed 2 or 3 stress signals, set pup up for success and aim for less next time by building the pup’s confidence.

Utilise supports like mom, littermates, or a known handler. In a similar manner to mom during the previous few weeks, a confident littermate can assist a concerned puppy by interacting with the item in question, showing the concerned pup that the item is safe. A handler can provide verbal support, petting or food to build positive associations with the item in question, though ideally, give the pup an opportunity to reach a positive conclusion on its own and thus develop those important problem solving and adaptability skills.

  • Review our massage and body handling protocols.  Make sure you’re not progressing too quickly. Reduce time then slowly build up again.
  • Use smaller sessions to focus on targeted improvement of problem areas during the body handling process. (For example, if pup struggles with having its feet touched, try some shorter desensitisation sessions focused on touching the puppy’s feet calmly and gently, paired with high value rewards). Remember, this is just the beginning: note down these problem areas and measure your improvement over time. Aim for progress, not perfection!
  • Ensure all staff move pups slowly and each pup is fully supported. Make sure not to move pups quickly through the air.

Stop and place hands around pup’s chest area. Do some gentle circular motion with your hands. Once pup is calm again you can resume the body handling.

It can help to go back to an area on the body that pup is comfortable being handled and try again.

Should pup still not be comfortable reduce the session times then build up again.

Try luring with slower, more deliberate movements. Make sure you have pup’s interest in the lure and maintain that connection. Practice moving your arm with a “mixing bowl” movement – wide, sweeping and steady.

Passive Environmental Enrichment

Passive exposure continues by exposing pups to a variety of surfaces, sounds, movement, objects in their crate and den environment.

Acceptance of change and difference can be achieved by placing 1 random object into the nest each day that the puppies have not been exposed to before (backpack, hat, purse, statue like objects). Observe and record each pup’s reaction to the novel object.

Below we have marked each activity with one to three ✓. Although all activities are important, we have highlighted activities that are particularly critical during this period of the puppies’ development. Make sure you still offer the pups a wide variety of activities and do not only focus on those with the most ✓!

Our pups are developing great hearing, sight, smell and motor skills. Make sure to keep rotating a variety of items in their den environment – Variety is important to keep pups inquisitive and accepting of change.

Make sure to emphasise different surfaces: putting new surfaces in your den rotation is great for passive socialization.

Some examples of items to introduce include:

  • Toilet Box (To be used if needed by pups in between toilet breaks)
  • Ramps between areas (for example, ramps between indoor and outdoor pens, or up into a slightly elevated crate)
  • New sounds – search on Youtube for soundtracks: Weather sounds, Cafe/kitchen sounds, children playing, cartoons or episodes of shows, etc.
  • More visuals: Posters or print-outs of patterns at puppy-eye height and items that are brightly coloured.
  • Surfaces: Different fabrics, household surfaces like tiles or wood, cardboard, concrete, fake or real grass, and other more complex and creative surfaces
  • Novel objects: Mannequins dressed in weird and wonderful outfits; statues of dogs or statues found at garden centers
  • Hanging toys: These help develop puppies’ perception of items above their head. Wind chimes, baby mobiles, streamers. (Make sure hanging toys are at an appropriate height as to not risk puppies being caught up in them.)
  • Hard Chew Toys (puppy appropriate!) can be introduced.

Note this video covers multiple age groups. Please see the section from 3:08 – 5:13 for content appropriate for this age group.

  • Working dogs encounter a variety of sounds throughout their career. Some dogs may travel with their partner through busy cities while others may go to the Opera or loud concerts with their partner. With all of the different sounds a dog may encounter, we want our puppies to be comfortable and confident with many different sounds during their critical socialization period.
  • When exposing pups to new sounds, think about variety. Music can include jazz, classic, country, pop, or simply putting on the radio.
  • Playing the news or weather report on the TV or radio exposes pups to different voices and different types of sound.
  • Music can be played quietly on a radio or computer in the same room as the whelping box for about an hour per day.
  • If Mom is uncomfortable with items or will chew items up, only place them in the den under supervision for a short period of time.

Working dogs must be accepting of a variety of novel objects they may encounter in the community; so, it is important that at an early age they begin to build their reference library of unusual items, including those that move, so that they are comfortable and confident with different novel objects. 

Ensure you introduce a large variety of new people, start gradually to build up pup’s acceptance of difference. Demographics to cover include; young, elderly, male, female, toddlers, different ethnic groups. Here is a list to get you started:

  • Men, women of different ages (see note below on children)
  • Men with facial hair/beards
  • Large and small people / tall and short people
  • People using different mobility items: wheelchairs, white canes, walking canes
  • People holding umbrellas
  • People with bulky handbags, backpacks
  • People wearing hats
  • People wearing glasses
  • People who speak loudly; laughing people
  • People from a distance (for example, knocking at the door) – both visiting pups and not visiting pups
  • People making erratic movements
  • People sitting on the floor or on chairs
  • People standing and talking together

A note regarding children
When socializing your pups with children, be careful to introduce young puppies to calm children who understand how to appropriately interact with the pup. If possible, letting the pup see and hear children without direct interaction can be helpful. Children can be loud, smelly (with tasty morsels on their clothes and face), and move erratically. Children can also react to puppies in ways that either encourage puppies to chase them, or alternatively might scare the pup. It’s ideal to have a few initial interactions at a distance or with calm children to build a healthy foundation, particularly when socializing younger puppies.

Additionally, make sure children are gentle with the pups – hold the puppy yourself and encourage the child to gently pat the puppy; or get the child to sit on the ground before placing the pup in their lap. Do not leave puppies and children unsupervised, and do not let children hold the pup in case they accidentally drop the pup!

 

It is important for working dogs to be comfortable with walking over different types of surfaces such as grates and uneven pavements. Puppies learn quickly that walking over bumpy and open surfaces is completely normal. 

It is important to have a variety of surfaces for the puppies to walk on so they do not grow accustomed to only walking over one particular surface. When selecting equipment, think of having different textures and materials.

More challenging surfaces can be added in the litter’s room to encourage them to climb and walk over different surfaces. This helps build the puppy’s confidence and also their muscles!

You may find your socialization items cover multiple objectives: for example, a textured wobble-board is both a new surface and a motion item; or tiles might be loud when puppy nails tap on them. Take this into consideration when choosing items appropriate for your puppies, and recognise that these items might be quite challenging for some pups.

Get creative – but keep in mind that the surfaces need to be age and skill appropriate. Some ideas for new surfaces could include:

  • Baking trays tipped upside-down (could be slightly wobbly)
  • Milk crates or pallets
  • Trays with a small amount of water in them (to replicate puddles)
  • Sand, bark, gravel (supervised)
  • Wooden panelling
  • Tiled floors (also consider the noise of the floor and the room, e.g. echoes in a bathroom)

Passive open crate exposure is the foundation to crate training. Puppies can explore the crate and go in and out as they wish. Hard plastic crates can be used if the front door is taken off to prevent puppies from becoming stuck in the crate. The latch can be securely fastened back (or the door is removed) in a metal crate.

Although this is a passive activity, we recommend someone is in the general area to listen out in case any issues arise.

Soft bedding and interactive toys will help to promote positive associations around the crate.



 

Working dogs need to be comfortable walking on unstable objects and comfortable with objects that move. It is important that puppies learn to be confident with walking on unstable objects and being around moving objects.

One useful item to introduce motion are exercise cushions or wobble boards. These tools can help pups develop muscle and motor skills and can often be adjusted to add more complexity/movement as the puppies grow. (For example, a mostly deflated cushion gives young pups an unusual but secure surface with some movement – the same cushion when fully inflated could be a suitable challenge for confident 8 week old pups). When using these tools, make sure to introduce them as secure items with very little movement so your pups aren’t frightened. Use foam or towels as padding which can easily be removed as your puppies grow.

Interactive Activities

During interactive activities, we continue to promote the puppy handler bond. Any time the pup choses to return its focus onto the handler reward this choice immediately with a smile, praise, petting or a food reward. 

  • Use praise, touch, and play as well as food rewards – figure out what is more rewarding for the pup. The frequency of food rewards can become intermittent then phased out when the pup is older. 
  • Purposeful play with littermates exploring novel objects, sound objects, motion objects, and surfaces 
  • Puppies build positive associations with new stimuli – allow for support through fear periods
  • Every interaction with the puppies continues the building of handler engagement
  • Use sessions to get feedback about how the pup responds and what support it will need in the future

Below we have marked each activity with one to three ✓. Although all activities are important, we have highlighted activities that are particularly critical during this period of the puppies’ development. Make sure you still offer the pups a wide variety of activities and do not only focus on those with the most ✓!

It is important to start to build a solid foundation of skills. Body Handing is ongoing and involves lots of practice. It can be done in short sessions throughout the day in order to set the pup up for success by keeping skill training fun and expectations consistent. Body handling is the process of teaching our puppies to accept all parts of their body being handled while remaining calm while we touch and move all parts of their body.
This is beneficial for health/Vet visits. These skills also help with body sensitivities to equipment the pup may need to wear such as boots or coat.

Remember, Body handling should be a calm, gentle process – it’s not a time for cuddles or play – that can come later! Take extra care around your pup’s teeth, ears and paws – these areas are crucial for Body Handling but many pups find the handling of these areas strange at first.

Start by Teaching the “Close” position: (Note at younger ages puppies may need to be put in this position to begin the exercise. With age, pups can be taught how to manoeuvre into that position using the lure as described below.) 

  1. Start by crouching on the ground with the puppy in front of you, facing you. 
  2. Place your right knee on the ground – If pup is on a lead put the lead under your knee so both hands are free 3. Use your left hand to lure the pup from your right knee in a circle until they are between your legs facing away from you 
  3. Tilt your lure back over the pup’s head so they go into a sit 
  4. Mark and pay 
  5. Put your knee down so you are kneeling with pup sitting between your legs and place your two hands on the pup’s chest 
  6. Repeat steps 1-6 until pup is quickly and easily moving into position as you lure
  7. Repeat steps 1-6 but this time say the word “close” just as their bottom touches the ground Do this 3 times 9. Fade the lure and work on duration – Reward pup for being still and calm. Ignore any wriggling or mouthing.
  8. Do this 3 times
  9. Fade the lure and work on duration – Reward pup for being still and calm. Ignore any wriggling or mouthing.

Handling Method

NOTE: For pups over 3 weeks, all handling starts in the “Close” position.

Ears

  1. Gently hold the puppy’s chin with one hand then use the other hand to lift their ear 
  2. Look inside and smell their ear for any signs of infection 
  3. Repeat with the other ear 
  4. Gentle praise, reward

Eyes

  1. Hold puppy’s chin gently and look at each eye 
  2. Gentle praise, reward

Teeth

  1. Gently hold pup’s chin and use the other hand to lift pup’s chin on one side to look at their teeth 
  2. Repeat on the other side 
  3. Gentle praise, reward

Legs and paws

  1. Run your hand down one of pup’s legs to their paw 
  2. Feel between the pads on their paw 
  3. Gentle praise, reward
  4. Repeat with other 3 paws 

Vet Restraint

  1. Use your left hand to gently restrain pup’s head against your chest so they are looking towards your left 
  2. Run your right hand down the back of the pup’s right leg to their elbow then raise their leg (it should be outstretched as if for a blood draw) 
  3. Mark and pay 
  4. Switch so pup is facing the opposite way and the other leg is outstretched 
  5. Gentle praise, reward

 Lay Over

  1. Place one arm underneath pup’s front legs
  2. Lift your arm (therefore lifting the pup’s front legs)
  3. Lean down until you are lying over the top of the dog 
  4. Remove your hand from under the pup 
  5. Gentle praise, reward

Release cue

  1. Tell the puppy “Go free” and allow them to break position 
  2. Give them a pat and plenty of praise

Handler can throughout the day not engage with pup but still provide variety by  

  • Knocking on the door when passing the den. 
  • Make other random sounds throughout the day e.g. when going in den for other duties like health checks, weighing pups, changing bedding 
  • Rattle hanging toys, bang two objects together to make an unexpected noise, drop objects, pretend to cough, laugh or sneeze. 
  • Play sound clips from a Youtube play list to expose puppies to some different or random sounds

Previously, puppies have been exposed to new environments while their mother was present. Depending on the confidence of your pups, you can consider taking the litter for short adventures without their mother to different (but previously introduced) environments. If puppies struggle with this, keep bringing mom along for support and try again next week. You could potentially start off with the “Trolley ride with mom” activity to transport pups to a familiar area, and during the session mom can be removed briefly but kept nearby in case she’s needed.

Pups should now have developed relationships with familiar handlers and one-on-one sessions can continue building this relationship and bond. Keep sessions fun and rewarding for the pup, and consider each pup’s individual needs and adjust the session accordingly. Sessions can vary in content depending on what your pups need and what your time allows, but here are a few ideas:

  • Active play sessions
  • Basic “puppy obedience” exercises (recall, follow me, basic “sit”/”nose touch” etc – not for formal skill development, but positive interactions with the handler)
  • One-on-one in Interactive Activity rooms
  • Body handling

Continue practicing the “wearing things” skill. This step positively introduces the concept and feel of a puppy coat.


Goal: To allow puppies to explore multiple motion objects with a handler and to be comfortable with walking on unstable objects and moving objects. 

To prepare the designated space for this activity, please complete the following steps. 

  1.   Gather 4-5 motion objects. Remember variety when selecting objects. 
  2.   Arrange the objects in a circle spread apart enough for the puppies and handler to move around comfortably. 

You are now ready to retrieve the litter of puppies you are working with. 

  1.   Allow the puppies to explore the room upon entering for up to 30 seconds. 
  2.   Encourage the puppies to explore each of the objects with you. 
  3.   Continue around the circle in the same manner.

Hand-held sounds items as well as interactive sound objects can be used during this activity. Below are age-appropriate examples for both hand-held objects as well as other sound items that puppies can interact directly with.

Goal: To allow puppies to explore multiple sound objects with a handler and to be comfortable with a variety of sounds. 

To prepare the designated space for this curriculum, please complete the following steps. 

  1.   Gather 5 noise objects and 2 handheld noise objects. Remember variety when selecting objects. 
  2.   Place the handheld noise objects on a nearby counter or out of puppies’ reach.  
  3.   Arrange the objects in a circle spread apart enough for the puppies and handler to move around comfortably. 

You are now ready to retrieve the litter of puppies you are working with. 

  1.   Allow the puppies to explore the room upon entering for up to 30 seconds. 
  2.   Use the hand-held noise objects when the puppies are playing and exploring the room. 
  3.   Encourage the puppies to explore each of the objects with you. 

4.    Continue around the circle in the same manner

Goal: To allow puppies to explore multiple novel objects with a handler and to be comfortable with novel objects.

To prepare your designated space for this activity, please complete the following steps.  

  1.   Gather 5 novel objects. Remember variety when selecting objects. 
  2.   Arrange the objects in a circle spread apart enough for the puppies and handler to move around comfortably.

You are now ready to retrieve the litter of puppies you are working with. 

  1.   Allow the puppies to explore the room upon entering for up to a few minutes (consider needs of the puppies!). 
  2.    Invite the puppies to explore each of the objects with you. 
  3.   Continue around the circle in the same manner.

All our work exposing pups to body handling, bonding with people and introductions to new environments begins to pay off as we introduce bath time.

Baths should be introduced slowly – expect to spend multiple sessions before you get the pup wet. Some key points to keep in mind:

  • Introduce pups to the room prior to placing pup in hydrobath.
  • No water initially and keep a non slip mat/towel on floor
  • Keep pups in pairs or small groups, and utilise the support of known handlers and mom during early introductions.
  • Use familiar toys, meals and voice and touch for reassurance and to build positive associations.
  • Keep bath exposures short and positive.

This activity allows you to transport puppies to new environments in a biosecure way. Having mom and their littermates nearby will also support the puppies as they’re introduced to new sights, smells and sounds.

  • Keep the brood nearby
  • Plan short visits initially and end on a positive before pups display stress signals
  • Repeat a second time (to the same location) for confidence building. Pup has been there so we are building up more positive associations around changing environments
  • Use bedding that has the pups/Brood scent on it
  • Bring familiar toys
  • No new people in with pups. Staff are a familiar like toys and blankets. Limit new learning to sights, smells, sounds in new environment.

 

Please Note: If at any time the health or safety of the puppy is at risk (i.e., the puppy is eating something they aren’t supposed to, or the puppy has escaped the yard) please disregard this protocol and immediately address the concern.

Goal: To associate the cue “Puppy, Puppy” with being fed and to use this cue to call the puppies to you. 

When to do the activity: 

  • Before feeding the puppies

After you enter the kennel, tap the bowls, and say “Puppy, Puppy” before putting the bowls down.  This conditions the puppy to associate being fed after the bowls are tapped together and they hear “Puppy, Puppy”. 

  • Bringing the puppies in from the yard

Materials needed: Treat pouch with the litter’s food

When you are ready to leave the yard, say “Puppy, Puppy” to and give each puppy a treat. Exit the yard and encourage the puppies to follow you into the concrete walkway. When you are halfway to their kennel, give the puppies a treat and reward them for their hard work. 

Use the cue “Puppy, Puppy” to bring the puppies in to their outside kennel. Say “Puppy, Puppy” and encourage the puppies to follow you. Give the puppies a treat when they come into their back kennel. 

Troubleshooting: 

If the puppies won’t come to you or follow you out of the yard:

  • Decrease the distance between you and the puppies in the yard. Cue the puppy by saying “Puppy, Puppy” and treat them when they come to you. 
  • Incorporate the “Follow me with Mom” game to introduce the concept of following your voice.

Puppies can now begin to get used to settling inside a closed crate. You can review further information on crate settling here.

Some tips:

  • Soft bedding and interactive toys will help to promote positive associations around the crate. Make sure to supervise puppies with bedding in case they chew it. If the puppy chews bedding, remove it for the safety of the pup and make sure you provide appropriate chew toys while the pup is in the crate.
  • Pup should spend time in a crate away from their littermates but around people. Puppies need to learn to settle in their crates while people are around, as this will prepare them for crate time in their raiser’s home.
  • Offer the pup a stuffed Kong or nylabone.
  • Start off slowly to build positive associations: gradually increase time in crate from 5 min to 30 mins. Make sure to toilet the pup before and after.

In a few short weeks, puppies will need to travel to their new home in a car or van. Many organizations will use vans to transport dogs throughout the dog’s life. We can introduce these concepts early on and help our puppies become familiar with the car or van as a “new environment” before we even turn it on.

Initially, while the car/van is turned off, you can set up crates in the boot or back seat area of the car or van. Puppies can be introduced to this area in groups. Similar to our “introduction to Bath” concepts, you can feed pups small high-value meals such as yoghurt to build positive associations with the new environment.

Another option is to set up a “play pen” in the back of the car/van using puppy fencing and toys. 

Over the next few weeks, we can introduce more formal car/van travel. Make sure to develop this skill slowly – cars/vans can be noisy, smelly, moving things that puppies will need to get used to during their working life, so taking these initial introductions slowly helps you develop a solid foundation to build upon over the next few weeks.

More Resources

IWDA members can access the following articles, presentations and lectures that can help you upskill and build upon your socialization program. Discover some of the science behind our Early Socialization Program. Not a member? Learn more here.

General Socialization:

Measuring Behavior:

Puppy socialization to improve your working dog program:

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